When traveling through Baja there is one thing that you are guaranteed to see, multiple vehicles packed to the brim with surfers, their surfboards stacked high on the roof or in the bed of a truck. Most of these surfer laden rigs will probably be heading to San Juanico, aka Scorpion Bay, aka Jamie’s other lover, aka the sweet spot.
Ask any surfer living in San Diego and they’ll tell you that Scorpion Bay has the best waves in Baja, when it’s working. Made up of 6 points and numerous breaks in between its no wonder that people drop whatever they’re doing and head down if a swell is coming through. It just so happened that a BIG swell was coming in just as we were about to get there. The day that we were leaving Loreto for Scorpion Bay Jamie looked and acted like a kid on Christmas morning. He was a ball of energy and giddy with excitement.
This time around we hit the road early. We wanted to get to there with plenty of time to get a good campsite and setup camp. Plus Jamie wanted to get in the water. The ride from Loreto to Scorpion Bay was mostly uneventful and by mostly I mean we were cruising along seamlessly until about 2 hours from our destination. At which point we saw a sign that said San Juanico, drove right by it and instead, followed the route that the GPS was taking us on. We ended up on the old dirt road that was used to get to San Juanico before the new paved road was built.
This road was the worst dirt road we had ever been on and it was wrecking havoc on Jamie’s neck. After an hour of torturous travel we decided that it would be a good idea to turn around. At the rate we were going it would have taken us longer to take the dirt road all the way than to back track and take the paved road. Once we hit the paved road I jumped in the driver’s seat to give Jamie and his neck a break.
Pulling into the campground on the cliffs overlooking the ocean felt so good. We were finally going to camp for an extended period of time and take a break from the road. Of course, first things first, we drive straight to second point to take a look at the waves. From second point you have a view of second (obviously) and third point.
I’m most definitely not an expert but I could tell that something was definitely brewing out there. After getting a sufficient grasp of what was going on out in the water we made our way back through the campground to find a spot. This “campground” isn’t like your normal North American campgrounds. There isn’t a gated entrance with a park ranger waiting for payment, there aren’t designated & numbered sites. None of that nonsense, here you basically just spot a nice cleared, flat area with remnants of a camp fire and pull up. We ended up picking our same spot from last time, Jamie skillfully backed up into the spot and we started unpacking.
Shortly after we had finished setting up our lawn and patio furniture (read- square of fake grass and foldable beach chairs) we had a visitor. Johnny who we had been running into along the highway the passed few days was camped next door to us along with his son and nephews. We chatted a bit and then he left us to finish setting up and by us, I mean me, because Jamie was going crazy and needed to get in the water. Lol
Over the next week we got into a nice routine. In the morning after waking and coffee I’d take Reina for a run and get a workout in while Jamie surfed. We’d then enjoy a nice breakfast, usually oatmeal and relax. Around lunch we’d make our way into town to hit up Burro en la Primavera, a cool restaurant in town with semi decent wifi when they wanted to give it to you. Jamie would try to get some work in while we ate and then it was back to camp and the ocean. Occasionally, when the Burro (the restaurant) didn’t have internet we’d hangout in front of the local store, Lupita’s. If you buy something there they give you the wifi password of the day.
A few days into our stay our friends that we had met in Catavina arrived. We ended up hanging out with them at the restaurant a few times and going down to the beach at first point. We also got some super awesome neighbors from San Francisco about half way into our stay. Chris and Alice pulled up in a beat up old suburban with a rooftop tent and we had a feeling we were going to get along with these two. As it turns out they were only renting the suburban but we still thought they were pretty cool and enjoyed their company. On our last day in Scorpion Bay we exchanged email addresses and made plans to meet up with them in Todos Santos where they had plans to stay the night before they had to leave for home.
After 7 days of awesome surf and perfect weather unfortunately it was the crappy internet that forced us to move on to more populated surroundings. The swell had been exactly what was needed to allow Scorpion Bay to show us just what all the hype was about. It was so good that there were some famous surfers out to enjoy all it had to offer. We also saw numerous people making the connection from 3rd point all the way to 1st point and into the bay. It was a story we had heard on multiple occasions but didn’t know if we’d ever witness it ourselves. Needless to say we were pretty bummed that we had to leave solely because we needed to work but this is why we’re able to be where we are and do what we do. So, we packed up the Burro and hit the road, straight to one of our favorite towns in Baja Sur!